Grades of Silk
Silk, renowned for its lustrous beauty and luxurious feel, comes in various types and grades. With so many types of silk fabrics advertised it is hard to know what you are paying for and what grade of silk is the best for you?Let's take a closer look at the different classifications of silk fibers and the grading system that determines their quality.
Having done extensive research we bring you the different types of silk fabric, the different grades and the key factors of grading silk fabric - all you need for a crash course in understanding the best quality silk. The art of making silk goes back thousands of years. Before we go through the silk grades it is important to understand the types of silk.
Silk Fiber Classification
Mulberry Silk: This is the most common and highly prized type of silk. It is produced by the Bombyx mori silkworm, which feeds exclusively on mulberry leaves. Mostly produced in China (82% of global production) India (15%) and 22 other countries make up the balance of global supply. It makes up around 70% of all silk produced. Mulberry silk fibers are long(up to 1 mile long), fine, and uniform, resulting in a smooth and soft texture. It has excellent drapability and is often used in high-quality clothing, scarves, and bedding.
Tussah Silk (also known as Tasar Silk or Vasna Silk): Also known as wild silk, tussah silk is produced by silkworms that feed on oak, juniper, and other trees in the wild. Mainly produced in Bilaspur, Champa and Raigarh districts of Chhattisgarh in India. The fibers are coarser compared to mulberry silk and have a natural, golden-brown color, creates rustling sound when rubbed together, also creases/wrinkles easily especially with water. Tussah silk has a more textured appearance and is often used in making rugs, wall hangings, and some traditional clothing items. It is valued for its rustic charm and durability.
Muga Silk: Originating from the Assam region in India, muga silk is produced by the Antheraea assamensis silkworm. exclusively produced in Assam region of India and hence in limited supply. It is known for its rich golden color that does not fade over time. Also prised for the feature: Good ultra-violet rays absorption (85.08%) - excellent sunshield for your skin. Muga silk has a strong and lustrous fiber, making it suitable for creating elaborate traditional garments and accessories. It holds great cultural significance in the region and is considered a symbol of luxury.
Eri Silk: Eri silk is produced by the Philosamia ricini silkworm, which feeds on castor leaves. Commonly produced in North-East India and some parts of Japan, China and Thailand. The fibers are short and have a matte finish. White in colour, displaying a wooly, cotton-like quality to it when spun into yarn, especially Ahimsa silk. Eri silk is unique as it can be processed without killing the silkworm, making it a more sustainable option. It is often used in making warm winter wear, as it has good insulation properties.
Besides these, there are some less popular silks such as Anaphe silk, Spider silk, Coan silk, Ahimsa silk, Art silk (Bamboo silk) and Fagara silk. All of these types of silk are inferior quality in appearance, luster, handfeel and colour to that of pure Mulberry silk.
Mulberry silk has been recognised the world over as the best quality of silk.
The production involves silk worms feeding on the leaves of the Mulberry tree. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the Mulberry silk worm Bombyx mori. The silk worm feed on Mulberry leaves before creating a cocoon made from one long strand of silk.
As per the International Sericulture Commission, 70%-90% of the silk produced each year is Mulberry silk.
Raw Mulberry silk of the highest grade have almost no impurities.